“Memory is not an archive, but rather a voice that carries on talking” and that is why there are places that, even when we leave them, persist in following us. For Davide Lajolo, Monferrato has always been just that: not merely a homeland, but rather a constant presence. A landscape capable of finding its way into words, into memory, and into the very way of looking at the world.
Anyone travelling through the hills of Vinchio today can still find many of the places that have accompanied his life and works. The trails through the vineyards, the woods that break up the pattern of the rows, the sheds, the ridges where the landscape slowly opens up, but also the ancient oaks and, why not… the masche.
“Seeing the grass from the roots’ side”
Davide Lajolo, journalist, politician and writer
Born in Vinchio in 1912, “in the season of golden wheat”, Davide Lajolo lived through some of the most turbulent times of 20th-century Italy. A journalist, writer, intellectual and a man deeply involved in the country’s political and cultural life, Lajolo’s life was profoundly shaped by the experiences he endured: from the war to the Resistance, and on to his civic and cultural activism in the years that followed.
“We joined the Resistance to put an end to all wars”.
A child of rural landscape of Monferrato, with its vineyards, woods and farmhouses, he grew up in a farming world that would later become a constant presence in his works and in his way of looking at reality, even when his commitments took him far from home.
“My people are inside me like the plants, the green grass, the hills, the red sun at sunset.”
That unbreakable bond with Vinchio and Monferrato
Even when he was far from his homeland, his connection to these hills never broke. In his books, the return to his native land is a recurring theme, almost a necessity.
Works such as I mé or Veder l’erba dalla parte delle radici depict a world of vineyards, the changing seasons, and deep human relationships. A rural world never idealised, but rather observed with a clear-eyed, yet deeply affectionate gaze. And it is perhaps precisely this that makes his voice still so relevant today: the ability to speak of his homeland not as a postcard, but rather as a place of work, memory and identity.
“Vinchio is my nest.”
The important work carried out by the Davide Lajolo Association odv is a key element in promoting and safeguarding the historical and cultural heritage created by Lajolo. We recommend visiting the website to take part in the many activities organised throughout the year.
We are honoured that the Association has awarded our president, Lorenzo Giordano, the Davide Lajolo – Il Ramarro Prize, which recognises individuals who have distinguished themselves in the worlds of culture, journalism, art, science, and the protection and enhancement of the landscape and the environment, with a profound sense of civic duty.
“My homeland is not a landscape; it is a part of me.”
Visit the places associated with Davide Lajolo
One of the most fascinating aspects of Lajolo’s work is that Monferrato never appears merely as a backdrop. The hills become a repository of memory, the landscape intertwines with the people, and the rural character takes on a human dimension even before a geographical one.
Walking through these hills means discovering views that seem to have stepped straight out of his pages. From the scenic routes around Vinchio to the trails immersed in the natural beauty of Val Sarmassa, many places still retain that atmosphere suspended between storytelling and everyday life that runs through his writing.
Following in the footsteps of the hilltop trails that Lajolo himself used to enjoy, three circular literary routes have been mapped out, starting from Cantina Vinchio Vaglio, which offer the chance to explore the major themes of the relationship between the author and the local area:
- The ‘I bricchi del Barbera’ route connects Vinchio to the hamlet of Noche, passing through the hill of San Michele.
- The ‘I boschi dei Saraceni’ route winds through the green Giardino valley, descending to the Tiglione river before returning to the village along the ridge of the Saraceni hill.
- The ‘Il mare verde’ route heads towards Cascine in the direction of Cortiglione, reaching the woods of VaI Sarmassa and including the picnic area, steeped in memories, poetry and the charm of the ‘Enchanted Forest’.
In Vinchio’s main square, a large display panel presents the life and work of Davide Lajolo and shows a detailed map of the routes, which is also featured on the individual signposts providing the necessary directions to continue the walk. .
Alongside this landscape and cultural heritage, Sergio Unia’s exhibition “Armonia e forme” is a project that continues to keep the cultural dialogue alive around these hills and their identity. In the barrel cellar of our winery, you can visit a permanent exhibition where the faces of Vinchio’s people meet Lajolo’s works in a whirlwind of vitality, harmony and sensitivity.
The exhibition can be visited upon reservation as part of the guided tour of the winery, followed by a wine tasting.
Other places to visit:
- Floriano Bodini’s bust of Davide Lajolo, entitled “Ulysses”, located on the Scalinata Davide Lajolo in the centre of Vinchio;
- The “Vinchio è il mio nido” museum, housed within the Davide Lajolo Association’s Cultural Centre;
- The open-air farming museum “Vinchio e le colline della Barbera” along the “I bricchi del Barbera” trail;
- Art ‘900, Davide Lajolo’s art collection (100 works including paintings and sculptures) on display in Nizza Monferrato, at Palazzo Crova.
