Nizza DOCG is made from Barbera, yet not all Barbera wines can be called Nizza. Why? The simplest answer would be to say that Nizza DOCG comes from a specific territory, but that would also be an oversimplification.
Because Nizza DOCG is the result of a journey through which a territory has chosen to identify with its iconic grape variety and to bring out an even more distinct identity in the bottle.
And perhaps this is precisely the best way to understand Nizza: the label does not bear the name of the grape variety, but rather the name of its territory of origin takes centre stage. Indeed, the area designated for the production of this wine – as defined by the winegrowers themselves when drafting the Production Regulations – possesses unique soil and climate characteristics. The soil (with its geology and microorganisms), the local weather (climate and temperature fluctuations) and the topography (altitudes and slopes) shape the biological behaviour of the vine. Superimposed upon this natural framework is the human factor: the wealth of traditions, viticultural choices and agronomic expertise handed down by winegrowers over the centuries.
This is what is known as ‘terroir’: the profound interaction between land, climate and culture. The terroir exerts such a strong influence on the grapes that the same grape variety will never yield the same results in any other part of the world.
What is Nizza DOCG?
To truly understand Nizza, it may be helpful to start with Barbera d’Asti DOCG, which has a much larger production area, spread across the provinces of Asti and Alessandria, and whose regulations allow for a Barbera content of between 90 and 100 per cent, with the option to use up to 10 per cent of other non-aromatic red grape varieties suitable for cultivation in Piedmont.
Nizza is a Controlled and Guaranteed Designation of Origin (DOCG) reserved for red wines produced in the 18 hilltop municipalities surrounding Nizza Monferrato, in the province of Asti. This area has always been considered one of the most suitable for growing Barbera grapes – a sub-region of the highest quality capable of bringing out the wine’s best characteristics.
Nizza DOCG is made from 100% Barbera grapes and also has a longer minimum ageing period: at least 18 months, of which at least 6 must be spent in wood; whilst for Nizza Riserva this rises to 30 months, of which at least 12 must be spent in wood.
These are two different interpretations of the same grape variety: whilst Barbera d’Asti can be fresh, approachable and suitable for everyday drinking, or more complex in its Superiore and Riserva versions, Nizza, on the other hand, is the result of a clearly defined terroir-driven approach which, thanks in part to the mandatory longer ageing period, gives it a unique character.
The name: the result of a journey towards quality
The recent history of Nizza began in 2000, when it was recognised as a sub-zone of Barbera d’Asti Superiore; in 2008 it became part of the Barbera d’Asti DOCG, and it was only with the 2014 harvest that it finally became an independent appellation. This is why the appellation represents the culmination of a journey aimed at showcasing the absolute excellence of the territory.
To gain an even better understanding of where Nizza fits in, it may be helpful to look at the Barbera quality pyramid, developed and refined by Giuliano Noè, long-standing oenologist at Vinchio Vaglio.
The concept is simple: at the very broad base lies the Piemonte DOC Barbera, which allows for higher production volumes and yields. As one moves up the pyramid, the scope gradually narrows and the production criteria become more selective: we find, in order, Barbera d’Asti DOCG, Barbera d’Asti Superiore, Nizza DOCG and, at the very top, Nizza DOCG Riserva.
This is not simply a ranking of wines according to how ‘good or bad’ they are: above all, the pyramid represents a progressive narrowing of the growing areas, yields and production requirements, culminating in wines designed to express greater concentration, structure and ageing potential.
Nizza DOCG according to Vinchio Vaglio: Laudana
At Vinchio Vaglio, Nizza has a specific name: Laudana. The name derives from Bricco Laudana, one of the most beautiful ridges in Vinchio, with excellent south-west exposure, situated right in the heart of the Nizza DOCG area, with sandy soils and a slight presence of clay, at an altitude of around 250 metres.
This hill has a long-standing reputation for quality, given that it was the ‘Vigne Vecchie Bricco Laudana’ that achieved the highest price ever recorded in 1989 at the Barbera d’Asti auction held at Costigliole d’Asti Castle. This sensational achievement spurred everyone – winemakers and the winery’s technical staff alike – to work together ever more closely and actively in the pursuit of quality.
Today, Laudana is made from grapes sourced from vineyards that can be over 50 years old, harvested by hand and carefully selected.
The wine undergoes a long ageing process: part in barriques, part in large 75-hectolitre casks. The ageing lasts around 18 months, followed by a period in concrete tanks and a further year in the bottle before release.
Laudana Nizza Nizza DOCG is a wine with an intense ruby colour, which will develop a garnet hue as it ages, with intense, distinctive and slightly spicy aromas. On the palate, it is full-bodied yet elegant, harmonious and persistent, with light, sweet tannins. It is a wine whose natural acidity, derived from the Barbera grape, continues to lend it a lively character, even after years of ageing.
Nizza Riserva DOCG according to Vinchio Vaglio: Sei Vigne Insynthesis
And then there is our Nizza Riserva: Sei Vigne Insynthesis, which is created from a blend of six vineyards – selected year on year from amongst the estate’s finest –. The name ‘Insynthesis’ evokes precisely this idea of synthesis: six vineyards, different expressions of the hillside, and a single wine, in which the individual characteristics come together to form a broader and more complex identity.
The Nizza Riserva DOCG Sei Vigne Insynthesis is an intense, well-structured Barbera, with notes of fruit in syrup and vanilla accompanied by light, sweet and well-integrated tannins. Deep ruby red in colour with violet hues, it has a complex bouquet with subtle toasted notes and spicy red berry fruit.
Dishes to pair with Nizza DOCG
The structure and length on the palate of Nizza make it particularly well-suited to Piedmontese cuisine and, more generally, to substantial dishes. It is perfect with braised and roasted meats, mature cheeses, mushroom-based dishes, as well as game and flavourful dishes.
Its good acidity, typical of Barbera, is in fact a valuable asset even with richer, fattier dishes, as it lends freshness to the palate. And you don’t have to limit yourself to meat: even first courses such as fresh stuffed pasta, mushroom risotto or dishes with ragù can create an interesting pairing by bringing together the savoury, structured elements of the dish with the wine’s freshness.
But if you ask us, you can really let your imagination run wild: the important thing is that the dish has enough character and structure to hold its own.
